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Maybe few people know that, just in front of the most
well known Panama, it exists a heaven corner still to discover,
one of the of last. We are talking about San Blas
archipelago, a group of 365 dream islands not bigger than
a football ground, appeared on the North coast of Panama,
in the Sea of Caribbean. A true and real “refuge”, and not
only for those few travellers that venture to the search for
far places from the mass tourism assaults but also the same
Indios Kuna, the local natives, who from always fight to
defend its culture and traditions from any outside contamination.
It is not allowed to any foreigners to buy lands,
nor undertake here any touristic activities and this is the
reason why hotels do not exist. The only hospitality form is
given by very simple cabins managed by the same Kuna. An
example is the island of Kuanidup where one of these local
“resorts” is: six cabins of wooden, external common services
and a restaurant. No electrical light, nothing of nothing. A
total immersion in the tropic world, with its colours, the
blazing sunsets, a crystalline sea, which plays with all the
possible green and blue shades. A place not for everybody
for sure. Who is probably looking for luxury he wrong address.
However, who is looking for strong emotions, as those
that nature can give away, will live a memorable experience.
Daily flights connect Panama to San Blas. Once you arrived
on the islands, the boat is the only way to visit the archipelago.
Big cruise ships, in fact, are able to reach only the
most outside islands because in many points the navigation
is made impossible by low depths and the presence of the
coral barrier. Only 51 over 365 islands of the archipelago
are settling. They all belong to the state of Panama, of fact
islands are managed from Sahila, a local village chief, to
whom go the most important decisions, which regard the
community. If the village chief is always a man, is the woman
who holds the familiar balances. Kuna is a matriarchal
company and you understand it also by the way women are
dressed up. At any time of the day they wear the dress and
the traditional ornaments: the sapuret, a kind of sarong, and
a blouse manufactured with two molas, the typical coloured
fabric squares coloured made of traditional production.
On the head, a handkerchief. Then the jewels: the olos, the
characteristic ring to the nose, earrings and gold necklaces.
At last, wrists and ankles gripped by threads
of colourful seed pearl complete the "mise". Very
simple, the male clothing instead: a pair of
shorts and a t-shirt. Here the life is scanned
by nature rhythms. Sun rises soon
in the morning and, with the first
dawn lights, they begin the daily
activities. Men mainly deal
with fishing and the building
of cayacos, which is
a canoe made by an only
free trunk. With cayacos
who they move between
the islands and they are
able to sail, with so rudimentary
boat, in a sea
often hostile. Children
start taking confidence
soon with the sea and it is
not rare to see young's driving
a cayaco in full ocean.
The women's main activity
is the creation of molas,
characteristic inlaid coloured
cloth square, with
pattern which reproduce
animals and daily
life scenes. Besides be
used to manufacture
the traditional suit of
the women Kuna, the
molas are an important
source of gain for "comunidad",
being practically
the only purchasable
things of handicrafts
and of a certain value to
San Blas.
Milena Passigato
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